Sarafa Bazaar after midnight: a no-bullshit guide to Indore's night food street

Sarafa is one of those things tourists describe as "an experience" because they don't know what to order. Here's the actual guide.

Get there at 10 PM

The market sells gold and silver during the day. Around 10 PM the food stalls take over and the gold shops close. Showing up before 10 means most stalls aren't ready. Showing up after 1 AM means the queues are insane.

Park at the Rajwada end and walk in. Don't try to drive through Sarafa itself — the lanes are too narrow and you'll lose 30 minutes.

What to order (and in what order)

Start savoury, end sweet. Don't try to do everything in one night — pace yourself, you can always come back tomorrow.

Round 1 — the chaats

• Bhutte ka kees at Joshi Dahi Bada — Indore's signature dish. Grated corn cooked with milk, ghee, mustard seeds. Order this first.
• Dahi vada at the same place. Soft, generous, perfectly tangy.

Round 2 — the sweets

• Malpua and rabri at Vijay Chaat House. Crispy edges, soaked centre.
• Jalebi anywhere fresh. Eat it within 90 seconds of it leaving the oil.
• Garadu (fried yam) at any of the stalls — looks like ordinary fried potato, hits different.

Round 3 — only if you have room

• Pani puri at Vijay's, again. The water has a Madhya Pradesh twist that's worth trying.
• Kulfi falooda — pick the stall with the longest queue.

Skip these

• The chaat stalls with bright neon signs and no queue. Locals know.
• Anything that calls itself "Mumbai-style" — you're in Indore, eat Indore food.

The drive home

Sarafa is in the old city. Roads are narrow even at 1 AM. Drive slow, the lanes are full of pedestrians who don't believe in traffic rules. If you've had food coma, hand over the keys.

Best night out you can have in this city for under ₹600 for two.